Uli Biaho is a granite peak located in the Karakoram range of the Himalayas, situated in Pakistan-administered Kashmir. It stands at an elevation of approximately 6,417 meters (21,053 feet) and is known for its technical difficulty and aesthetic beauty.
The name "Uli Biaho" translates to "Long, Long Thorn" in the local Balti language, referring to the long, sharp ridge that characterizes the mountain. The peak is renowned for its challenging climbing routes, which attract experienced mountaineers from around the world.
The first successful ascent of Uli Biaho was accomplished in 1979 by a British-American expedition led by Alex MacIntyre. They completed a bold and difficult route known as the "Magic Line," which involved a combination of technical rock climbing, ice climbing, and traverses across steep and exposed terrain.
Uli Biaho is famous for its sheer granite walls, which present significant challenges to climbers. The routes on the mountain often involve long and sustained rock climbing, with sections of difficult cracks, chimneys, and slabs. The nature of the rock and the alpine environment requires climbers to possess excellent technical skills, route-finding abilities, and physical endurance.
Due to its remote location and technical difficulty, Uli Biaho is less frequently attempted compared to other peaks in the Karakoram range. However, it continues to attract experienced climbers seeking a demanding and rewarding ascent. The mountain's striking features, challenging climbing routes, and breathtaking views make it an appealing objective for those looking for an adventurous and technical mountaineering experience.
Lodging at base camp (single supplement) |
Full base camp with dinning tent, bathroom, showers & solar charge |
All internal/domestic transport |
All domestic flights |
50kgs (110 lbs) personal baggage |
All meals during trek and at base camp (B,L,D) |
Group emergency equipment/satellite phone service with fixed calling charge |
Two nights stay in Islamabad hotel on arrival and two on return (bed & breakfast only) |
Staff insurance (guide, cook, kitchen staff, assistant(s) & porters etc) |
Experienced cook from Pakistan |
Kitchen staff |
Porters for all expedition supplies |
Solar power at base camp |
Electricity generator (backup for high voltage devices) |
International airfare |
Permit/royalty fee according to number of persons |
Personal climbing equipment, clothing & sleeping equipment |
Group climbing gear (rope, ice crew, snow bar, EPI gas, cooking pots and others) |
Mountain climbing rescue and evacuation insurance policy - mandatory |
Lodging and meals above base camp |
Any service above base camp |
Communication radio (walkie talkie) |
Weather reports |
Personal equipment cargo to/from Islamabad |
Pakistan visa fee |
Tips/gratuities to staff, cook, assistant(s) of US$ 250 per person in total |
Meals in Islamabad |
Extra hotel nights after the climb |
Trip cancellation insurance |
All expenses incurred in the event of early wind-up/summit (extra hotel nights, meals at hotels, evacuation) |
Charges incurred due to delays beyond the control of Apricot Tours (Force majeure) |
Personal communication (phone, fax, e-mail) between Pakistan and home country. |